Wine is Here to Stay, for Me
My health includes great books, deep conversations, longs walks, good books, decadent dining, frolicking in vineyards, crushing Duolingo, and memorable wines that transport.
Over the past few weeks I have been bombarded with texts, emails, DMs, and phone calls regarding the news about wine being bad for your health. I’m not here to be your doctor or your conscience. Over the past few years I have read the health reports, researched who financially backed a lot of these groups for anti-alcohol (it’s a lot), read the majority of the anit-alcohol literature, talked with colleagues, and doctors regarding wine, its future, and the career of thousands who work in my industry. I came to wine for the wine, but I’m really in this industry for the people.
Wine is an elixir and also a business. I came to a career in wine after twenty years of working in other industries. The majority of my family doesn’t drink. Like most, it started as a hobby and morphed into a career.
Is this industry frustrating at times? Yes.
Does the industry seem performative in their DEI? Yes, but those of us who are out here fighting for more equality in wine are still here doing the work and not going anywhere.
Is there too much talk about wine that the majority of consumers don’t care about? Yes.
Has the average age of a wine drinker changed, Yes.
Do we need better transparency about what’s in wine? Yes. Be aware that many of your favorite celebrity wines are not good or well made. This is for another day.
I am not a wine person who believes that it’s my responsibility to tell you about your health. That’s between you and your health provider. But, I do want you to consider sipping better. And maybe that means less often. Here me out. I’ve never shied away from saying my age and for me drinking less right now is because of not wanting to have a hot flash at 3am. #IYKYK. Sometimes our bodies tell us we need a break and it is good to listen to it. I’m still swirling, smelling, and tasting. But due to menopause I’ve had to consume less which is fine.
Community is important as well. For me, wine is community. The community that comes with being around a shared table. I’ve been to many wine dinners and I’ve found that if I’m seated next to a rather interesting person, I actually drink less. I want to soak in their knowledge, hear their story, and many times wine is an afterthought. And to be clear, I’m consuming less, but better.
Have there been times I’ve over did it? Absolutely, but I don’t beat myself over the head for those times. I will just do better next time. All the terms that come with abstaining “dry, damp, curious” are more than just buzzwords for many people and I do know there are some for whom any alcohol is a problem. Again these are personal choices.
Alcohol consumption in America looks different than many wine drinking regions and it seems we focus a lot on getting drunk over drinking something beautiful. It’s usually about quantity over quality. I didn’t grow up with wine and it wasn’t until my mid-20 when I discovered it paired with BBQ. Truly, joie de vivre.
In October 2024, I spent a month in France leading and working food and wine trips. I didn’t have one hangover. I didn’t feel tired, run down, or not myself. I even exercised most of the month. When it was time to turn up, I turned down honoring my body and myself. It got me to thinking, the majority of my wine consumption was at a table with clients. It wasn’t because I had a bad day (there were a few of those), but overall, the wine was during a meal. This is the way I came to wine, through food. À table.
The above photo is with one of my top 5 champagne producers. He makes champagnes that are elegant, thoughtful, and full of energy. There are many like him. They don’t always make it over the ocean to your stores and they can’t compete with a polo match, quantity, and marketing. Y’all know what I’m talking aboutThey have to be sought out. You have to do the work to find them. And that is a good thing. He was my “aha” champagne moment. His champagnes are worth seeking out not to just “pop a bottle” but to drink a champagne with energy.
In time when everyone is saying “vote with your dollars” it is time we apply that to wine. Forego, I’m just at the store and need a wine to get me through the night. It’s time to seek out the small wine stores or boutique wine stores where when you walk in everyone knows your name. It’s asking your favorite wine professional (I’m raising my hand) on what I taste and drink. Or it’s choosing to abstain and I fully support that decision too.
Why? Wine truly is a lifestyle rich with history, intrigue, romance, and community. You are all welcome at my table - with wine, water, or your favorite beverage.
Here are some links on the alcohol issue I’ve been reading and sharing.
Should You Change Your Wine Consumption?, by Eric Asimov (*gift link)
What I Wish I Could Tell the Surgeon General, by Karen MacNeil
You’ll Have to Take My Glass From My Cold, Wine-Stained Hand, by Boris Fishman
U.S. Surgeon General Calls for Cancer Warnings on Alcohol Labels, by Olivia White
On Friday, for paid subscribers:
I’ll be taking you to the Champagne region on my private experience tasting with this legendary champagne producer and how he had all of us in tears (in a good way).
This is so well written and so agree with you about drink cultures in other countries also quality of wine in Europe helps with not getting a hang over. Just want to thank you for this post.
Julia,
I always appreciate your insight on industry topics - especially this one. "Haters" are gonna hate, but wine will continue to be a haven of community, education, history, and deliciousness for us.
I hope you continue to take care - miss you! xoxo